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The Director of Military Intelligence, Colonel Sir Francis Wingate, talking to an Arab civilian on leaving a train on the Sudan Military Railway, possibly near Atbara. Colonel Wingate spoke fluent Arabic. The Arab is probably Mohammed Fadl, a Sudanese spy from Dafur who was imprisoned and mutilated by the Khalifa. His right hand and left foot had been amputated as punishment.
If the southern section of the Cape to Cairo never got as far as Rhodes, or indeed Williams, had hoped, nor did the northern. Starting in Egypt and running through Sudan, it was an equally ambitious exercise simply because of the sheer scale of the enterprise, even though it passed through relatively easy territory. The line had to traverse vast swathes of desert, and its construction in those harsh conditions was only made possible through military discipline. Indeed, it was intended as a military railway built to give the British access deep into Sudan, and was constructed at the instigation of Herbert (later Lord) Kitchener, who at the time was the sirdar (commander-in-chief) of the Egyptian army.
Before the British occupied Egypt in 1882, the Egyptians already had an embryonic railway system, Africa’s first. Completed in 1856 the 120-mile line connected the port of Alexandria on the Mediterranean with Cairo and was designed by none other than the ubiquitous Robert Stephenson. The railway was no mean achievement, having to cross the Nile twice, and the line was highly profitable as it attracted travellers using the overland route between Europe and India, which avoids the long sea voyage via the Cape, who previously had to use camels or rough horse-drawn carriages to cross Egypt. Despite the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869, which took away much of its revenue, the railway was extended to reached Assiut on the banks of the Nile by 1874 and Luxor 340 miles south of Cairo in 1898.
Sudan, south of Egypt, had been abandoned in 1885 by the British after the siege of Khartoum which ended with the massacre of Gordon and his army by rebels, led by Mahdi Muhammad Ahmad, a religious leader opposed to Western control of Egypt. A decade later, Kitchener obtained permission from the British government to build the Sudan Military Railway through to Khartoum in order to reconquer the country and defeat the Mahdi rebels. To get to Khartoum, hundreds of miles across the desert, Kitchener realized that a railway was needed from the Sudanese frontier at Wadi Halfa on the Nile which could be reached by ships from Luxor.
Helped by an eccentric but capable young Canadian military railway engineer, Edouard Girouard, and supplies from the United Kingdom, work started in 1896 with the reinstatement of an existing railway that had been destroyed by the Mahdi’s followers. At first progress was slow. While the territory was flat desert, conditions were difficult because of the water shortage, which was simultaneously also making life difficult for Pauling across the Kalahari 3,000 miles south. Temperatures were regularly above 40°C during the day but fortunately water, essential for both men and machines, was found at two points along the line, which saved the day. The labour force, too, was somewhat unreliable since a shortage of men had led to convicts and other misfits being taken on, but soon the military discipline and precision paid off and construction reached a ferocious pace with, at times, three miles being completed in a day. Girouard was greatly helped by the fact that he had cadged five engines, destined for the southern Africa section, from Rhodes, whom he had met on a trip back to London to sort out supplies. Every day, two trains were sent down the line from Wadi Halfa, where all the engineering work was carried out, to the teams laying the track. The first would arrive at dawn, carrying 2,000 yards of rail along with sleepers and the accessories needed to lay them, and, of course, water, while the second, at noon, brought in more rail and other equipment, but also the luxuries for the white engineers that kept their morale up: as well as food and water there would be whisky, cigarettes and even newspapers. Only halted by occasional battles, which were won easily thanks to the supply line, and intermittent problems with the availability of equipment, Kitchener and the railway reached Omdurman, on the outskirts of Khartoum, in September 1898 where the decisive battle for control of the country was fought, in which, incidentally, Winston Churchill took part. A remarkable 576 miles of railway had been completed in under two years, amid conditions of extreme hostility both from the weather and the local population. No wonder that the railway was feted by Victorian writers as ‘the greatest weapon against the Mahdi’.
The Egyptian railways were standard gauge but Kitchener built his line to the cheaper Cape gauge, 3ft 6ins, demonstrating his ambition that one day it would meet up with Rhodes’s railways down south – although the more practical reason may have been that the five 3ft 6ins gauge locomotives Girouard had borrowed from Rhodes were Cape gauge. With rapid progress at both ends, by 1900 there seemed a strong possibility that the Cape to Cairo railway would be completed. That year, Rhodes had cheekily sent a telegram to Kitchener, saying ‘if you don’t look sharp, I will reach Uganda before you’. Kitchener replied, with equal chutzpah, ‘hurry up’. But there was a long way to go and the Boer War, the lack of will on the part of the British government, the blockage by the Germans in Tanganyika and the sheer ambition of the project meant it would never be completed.
As was the British way, with the exception of the Sudan line driven through by Kitchener and small sections in the Cape Colony and East Africa, the vast majority of the completed sections of the Cape to Cairo had been built by the private sector. The Cape to Cairo may never have been finished, but its partial construction left behind a notable legacy, helping to establish a permanent British presence in much of central and southern Africa and effectively creating the two new colonies of northern and southern Rhodesia which, understandably, were named after the railway’s principal protagonist.
Had the line been finished, it would not, in any case, have been a complete railway like the other transcontinentals. It was never envisaged that a traveller would have been able to undertake the whole journey in a single train because of the difference in gauges and the various sections covered by boat. The river journey on the Nile extended more than 850 miles and there were no plans to build a parallel railway.
Nevertheless, by 1928, with the construction of a section of line in Uganda, the whole journey became possible by public transport – buses, trains and steamers – and entirely on British territory as Mombasa, on the Kenyan coast, could be reached by a combination of boat and train from Khartoum. The building of the Sudan Military Railway had stimulated further development of the iron road in Sudan to serve local interests rather than as part of the grand design of a transcontinental railway. The railway reached Kosti, 240 miles south of Khartoum in 1911, from where a ship could be taken up the Nile to Juba. There followed a 100-mile journey in a bus over the frontier into Uganda where, at Nimule, a steamer and a further bus reached another railhead at Namagasali from where, after two separate lines had been linked in 1928, a direct train went to Mombasa. It was not a trip for the casual traveller!












